Advanced Shibari Techniques

You've got the foundation. Now let's peek at the more advanced side of Shibari. Advanced doesn't necessarily mean you must try these right away (in fact, do not jump into advanced ties without plenty of practice and knowledge). But for a comprehensive tutorial, we'll introduce them: suspension, futomomo ties, and hair ties. These techniques can be intense, highly rewarding, and beautiful, but they also come with greater risks and require a higher level of skill and caution.

Important: These advanced techniques require in-person instruction from experienced practitioners. Reading about them here provides context and understanding, but you must attend hands-on workshops or seek mentorship from qualified riggers before attempting them. If you're new to rope bondage, start with our Shibari tutorial for beginners to master fundamental techniques first. Before attempting advanced ties, make sure you understand how to choose and care for Shibari rope properly. Online resources like Rope Study and Crash Restraint offer excellent educational materials, but they are supplements to—not replacements for—live training. Many cities have rope dojos or bondage education events where you can learn safely under supervision.

Approach these techniques with respect, patience, and the mindset that you'll continuously learn.

Introduction to Shibari Suspension

Suspension (hanging a person partially or fully in ropes off the ground) is perhaps the most awe-inspiring Shibari skill. There’s something breathtaking about seeing someone float in mid-air, bound in intricate rope, suspended as if time stopped. The suspended person might feel a mix of flying and floating, a deep surrender as gravity itself is harnessed as part of the scene. However, suspension is truly advanced. It introduces significant risks that are not present in floor work. If you’re a beginner or even intermediate, consider this an intro to what suspension is about, rather than a how-to for doing it immediately.

Safety and training are paramount here. As Shibari experts emphasize, suspension comes with inherent dangers: ropes that are perfectly comfortable on the ground can cause nerve damage once there's body weight pulling on them, and a mistake in suspension could lead to falls and serious injury. Never attempt a full suspension without hands-on training from an experienced rigger.

Look for workshops through organizations like Shibari Study or local kink education groups. Many experienced riggers also offer private lessons or mentorship programs. Sites like FetLife can help you find rope groups and workshops in your area. Remember: suspension is not something you can safely learn from videos or articles alone. The tactile feedback, immediate corrections, and supervised practice are essential.

That said, it's good to know the principles:

• Types of suspension: There are partial suspensions, where one part of the body is lifted (e.g., chest harness attached overhead so the bottom is on tiptoe, or one leg is lifted off the floor), and full suspensions, where the person is completely off the ground supported by ropes. Partials are less risky and often a stepping stone; they let the bottom feel some weightlessness and let the top practice handling load, but the bottom can still support themselves a bit or be easily stood up if needed. Full suspensions are high-risk and require flawless technique.

• Rigging points: You need a solid anchor point (often a metal suspension ring or strong beam) that can support at least 5 to 10 times the person's weight (for safety margin). Often multiple ropes (called uplines) are attached from the person's harnesses to the ring. Carabiners or rings are used to reduce friction. All hardware must be load-rated (climbing grade gear). Never improvise with something that might break; no flimsy ceiling hooks not meant for human load!

• Body harnesses for suspension: Typically, a combination of harnesses is used, for instance, a secure chest harness (like a Takate Kote or similar) and a hip or leg harness. The person might be suspended horizontally (lying face-up or face-down in air), vertically, upside-down, or in a seated position. Each configuration has specific tie placements to distribute weight. For example, a face-down (prone) suspension usually uses a chest harness and a hip harness, plus support on the legs, so the rope's bearing the load at the torso and hips, not just one point.

• Nerves and circulation: When suspending, rope pressure intensifies. A wrap that was merely snug on the ground becomes a tourniquet under full weight. This can cause numbness or nerve injury quickly. Common danger spots: upper arms (radial nerve), thighs (femoral nerve), and any rope behind the neck. Rigorous attention to how rope is placed and continuous monitoring are necessary. Know your partner's body: some people have higher risk of compression injuries. If in doubt, don't load it. A good rigger will have studied anatomy; for suspension, you really need to know where the major nerves run and avoid those areas or tie in a way that spreads load.

• Communication and consent: Before doing suspension, discuss thoroughly. Both partners must be clear on signals (often the person being tied might go non-verbal, so establish nonverbal cues like dropping a ball or blinking, etc.). Trust is huge here; the bottom literally entrusts their body to the top's ropes. As the top, you must be prepared to immediately bring someone down if they indicate distress. And bottoms: communicate early! Don't "tough it out" in silence. A tingle or loss of feeling is a red flag to voice right away. Agree on a safeword or gesture that, when used, means "down now." Suspension isn't a place to push past true limits; it's intense enough even when all is well.

• Always have safety measures: Spotter: It's highly recommended to have a third person present as a spotter when doing suspension, especially while you're new. They can observe things you might miss and assist in emergencies. Safety shears: Absolutely have cutting tools on hand (more than one, ideally). In case of any issue, cutting the rope is always an option to get someone down fast. Rope is replaceable; a person's health is not. Mats or padding: People can and do fall if something fails. A crash pad or thick gym mats under the suspension area can reduce injury if that happens. And of course, never leave a suspended person unattended even for a moment.

Reading this, you might think, "Wow, this sounds scary." It is serious, yes, but when done right, suspension can be an absolutely exhilarating experience. Many describe it as a profound rush. The rope bottom might feel like they're flying, completely helpless yet safe in the rigger's ropes: a trust high unlike anything else. The rigger might feel a deep sense of responsibility, focus, and accomplishment, almost like conducting a scene that is part circus, part meditation. The visuals are stunning too: a body arched in midair, framed by ropes, evokes a blend of vulnerability and strength.

If you're interested in suspension, take it step by step. Seek out workshops or mentors; learn on the ground extensively first. Resources like Two Knotty Boys offer books and educational materials, but these should complement—never replace—hands-on instruction. Practice all the components (knots, lock-offs, managing rope tension) with partial weight before going full. One wise approach: become very proficient at floor-based versions of the ties used in suspension (like chest harnesses, hip harnesses, futomomos) and at quick releases. Then practice partials, e.g., suspend just hips while upper body is still on ground (called a "progressive suspension"). Over time you'll build the knowledge.

Again, to be absolutely clear: do not attempt suspension without direct, in-person training from a qualified instructor. The risks are too high, and this article cannot replace hands-on guidance.

In summary, suspension is an advanced art within Shibari that should be approached with reverence and caution. As one guide put it, acknowledge "the inherent dangers" (nerve damage, falls, circulation issues) and prepare meticulously to mitigate them. Get proper training and never rush into it. When you do go up, double-check every knot and carabiner. Keep communication open. With these precautions, Shibari suspension can be an immensely rewarding pinnacle of rope play: an ultimate exercise in trust, technique, and intimacy literally elevated to new heights.

Futomomo Tie Instructions

The Futomomo is a favorite Shibari tie that we touched on earlier; it's the one that binds a bent leg (thigh to calf). "Futomomo" basically means "fat leg" in Japanese, referring to the thigh. In practice, a futomomo tie takes a person's leg, folds it so the heel is near the butt (knee bent), and then ropes it up tightly so it stays in that folded position. It's often used in combination with other ties or in partial suspensions (imagine one leg tied in futomomo and attached upward, making the person stand on one leg). This technique works well in predicament bondage scenarios where maintaining balance becomes part of the challenge. It's also a versatile tie: you can do it on a standing person, seated, or lying down. It creates a lovely rope band down the leg, and can be very secure.

Let’s go through a basic futomomo tie step by step:

1. Start with a single column on the ankle and thigh: Get your partner in position. Typically, the leg you're tying will be bent, with the knee closed and the ankle up near the thigh (the classic is heel touching the buttock or close). If they can't comfortably hold it that far, no problem; wherever their flexibility allows is fine. Now, take a rope (maybe 15 to 20 feet length) and tie a single column tie around both the ankle and the thigh together. Essentially, you treat the ankle and thigh as the "two parts" of one column. Wrap the rope two or three times around the thigh and the lower leg just above the ankle, cinching them together like a cuff, then tie it off like a normal single-column knot. This initial tie secures the leg in a bended loop. It should be placed a bit above the actual ankle bone (to avoid too much pressure on the bone) and on the meat of the calf against the thigh. Make sure that initial single-column is snug. If it's loose, the whole futomomo can slip.

2. Spiral up the leg: With the ankle and thigh now connected by that column tie, you'll use the remaining rope to wrap around the entire folded leg, winding upward. Take the two free ends of your rope and begin wrapping them around the calf and thigh together, moving upward toward the knee in a spiral fashion. Lay each wrap neatly next to the previous one (avoid gaps or overlaps) for a comfortable even pressure. The wraps should have a decent tension, firm enough to hold the leg, but not so tight as to cause pain or circulation cut-off. Depending on rope length and leg length, you might get 2 to 4 wraps; e.g., three wraps is common. Aim to finish your wrapping just below the knee (you generally don't rope over the knee cap for a futomomo, to let the knee move a bit and not strain it).

3. The inside cinch (uchi-sabaki): Now you have a leg wrapped up but those wraps could slide without a cinch. So, we'll lock them with a hitch on the inside of the leg (inside meaning the side of the calf that's against the thigh). Take your rope ends and pass them over the top of the last wrap and between the thigh and calf on the inside of the bent leg. Essentially you're threading the rope through that "triangle" of space at the knee pit from the inside. This creates a loop around the wraps. Now form a half-hitch: after going through, hook the rope under the segment you just created and pull through a loop, like you're tying a overhand knot around the wraps. Pull it tight. This cinches all the wraps together on the inside of the leg; you'll see it make a snug X pattern there.

4. The outside cinch: Repeat a similar cinch on the outside of the leg. After the inside cinch, bring your rope ends around to the outside of the leg (the outer side of the thigh). You're likely now going upward along the leg. Create another hitch: bring the rope over the top wrap, then down between the thigh and calf on the outside, and loop it such that you again tie a half-hitch around the wraps, but in the opposite direction (since your working ends are traveling upward now). Tighten this as well. Now the wraps are cinched on both sides, which really firms up the futomomo structure. The ropes won't slip off the leg easily because they're tied in place at both the inner knee and outer knee sides.

5. Work your way along (if needed): With a long rope, you might alternate these inside/outside hitches on each wrap layer. Essentially, you can do a knot on the inside at each gap between wraps, and one on the outside at each gap, zig-zagging the rope ends along. In our description we did one inside and one outside which often suffices. If you had more wraps or rope left, you could continue: inside loop, outside loop, etc., until you reach the top wrap.

6. Finish the tie: Once you reach the top of your wraps (near the knee), you need to tie off the rope. A common way: feed the rope under the topmost wrap and then tie a square knot or a couple of half hitches around a section of rope to secure. Autostraddle’s method has you bring the rope ends through the last loop to reverse direction and then maybe wrap down a bit. But a simple approach: after your last hitch, if there’s a bit of rope left, you can wrap it around the whole bundle (around thigh and calf) a few times and then tuck the end under a wrap to hold, or tie an overhand knot on a piece of rope. Just ensure it’s fixed and won’t loosen. Tuck any tails.

Now you have a futomomo! The leg should be nicely bound. It's effectively immobilized in that bent position. Test by gently jostling the wraps; if they stay in place, good. If the ankle slips or there's gapping, you might need to re-tie tighter. Properly done, a futomomo is very secure and won't unravel even if the person squirms.

What does it feel like? For the one tied, a futomomo creates intense pressure on the thigh and calf. It's a bit like a tight leg hug. It can become uncomfortable if left too long, because muscles might cramp or circulation could get limited in the lower leg. So always check the foot of the tied leg. If it's getting cold or blue, time to untie soon. Often rope bottoms describe a love-hate with futomomos: it's restrictive in a hot way and can be sustainably uncomfortable (some like the challenge of enduring it). In partial suspension, a futomomo on one leg can create a predicament. The person has to balance on one foot, adding an endurance aspect.

From a top's perspective, futomomo ties are super useful. They shorten a person's height (if you tie both legs futomomo, they basically can't stand, they kneel). They present the thigh (for impact play or other things). They can be hitched up to all kinds of stuff: you could attach a rope from the futomomo to a chest harness or a ceiling point to lift that leg, etc. For more ideas on incorporating rope bondage into scenes, explore our bondage roleplay scenarios and games. Also, visually, futomomos with their rope spiral look great.

One caution: futomomo ties put pressure on the ankle and shin nerves if not padded by muscle. Ensure your initial wraps were on a fleshy part and not directly cinching the ankle bone or fibula head at the knee. If your bottom experiences any sharp tingles in the foot or toes going numb, that's a sign to loosen or come out. For comprehensive safety guidelines, review our bondage guide for beginners.

Practice futomomo on the ground plenty. It's a staple of advanced bondage because of how it can be combined with suspension (for example, a "side suspension" might use one futomomo and one free leg, etc.). But even as a standalone, it's a sexy tie. Picture your partner on their back, legs in futomomos, arms perhaps tied behind, a very helpless, exposed position for... whatever you fancy.

Hair Rope Tie Methods

For a sensual twist (pun intended) on bondage, don't forget you can tie hair too! A hair rope tie is a technique where you use rope to bind someone's hair, usually to create a sort of handle or tether using their ponytail or braid. It's an intimate form of control. The head is very sensitive, and a gentle tug on a rope-attached ponytail can send shivers down the spine. It's also visually striking: long hair braided with rope, or a rope leash leading from someone's hair, has a dramatic effect. Make sure you're using appropriate rope materials that won't damage hair.

However, hair ties need to be done carefully to avoid damaging the hair or causing too much pain. The goal is to pull the hair evenly and not rip out strands. Here are a couple of methods and tips for tying hair:

• Ponytail Lark's Head Tie: This is one of the simplest and most secure hair ties. Gather your partner's hair into a ponytail (it works best if the hair is medium to long length). You can use a normal hair elastic to make a ponytail first if you like. Then take a rope (something thin like 4mm or 6mm works well, and ideally a soft rope to avoid cutting hair; hemp/jute can grip well but some prefer softer). Fold the rope in half to find the midpoint. Now, place that midpoint under the base of the ponytail, and fold it over so you create a loop around the hair, basically a lark's head knot on the ponytail. Pull the two free ends of rope through the loop and tighten it down at the base of the ponytail. You've now tied the rope to the hair. It should be snug, but not so tight it's snapping hairs. This collapsed lark's head method is great because it cinches evenly around the bundle of hair, distributing pressure on all strands equally (thus minimizing damage). Important: as you tighten, do so gradually and hold the ponytail below the tie to keep tension even. You don't want just a few hairs taking all the force. When done, the rope should hold firm on the hair like a new "hair tie" and not slip off.

• Securing the hair tie: Once the rope is attached to the hair, typically you’ll tie a small knot to keep it from loosening. For example, after making the lark’s head, you can tie a half hitch or two with the working ends around the hair just below the lark’s head. Often though, simply pulling the lark’s head super tight and maybe twisting it once is enough if you’re going to maintain tension. Some advanced methods use additional half-hitches down the ponytail to really secure (and add decorative knots along the hair).

• Using the hair tie: Now you effectively have a rope "leash" attached to their hair. You can use it in many ways. A common scenario is to gently tug the rope to control the person's head position, e.g., pulling it back to arch their head, or leading them by the hair. Because the rope distributes pressure, it's safer and more comfortable than grabbing a handful of hair with your hand (which can concentrate force on a few strands). You could also tie the rope ends off to something else: for instance, tie the hair to your partner's own wrist bindings (forcing their head back if they try to move their arms), a devious predicament! Or tie the hair rope up to a headboard, effectively tethering them by the hair to the bed. Another visually stunning use is tying the hair rope up to a ceiling ring along with other suspension lines, not to bear full weight (never suspend solely from hair tie!), but to keep the head upright or pulled in a certain angle during a suspension. Never put full body weight on a hair tie. It's not meant to suspend a person (scalp can't handle that). But hair can handle quite a bit of controlled tension.

• Even tension is key: The most important factor for a successful hair tie is keeping the tension even across all hairs so you don’t have a few hairs taking the brunt and ripping out. Use rope that has good grip but is smooth. Surprisingly, a slightly rough rope like a supple jute or hemp works well because it grips the hair and doesn’t slide, as long as it’s flexible enough to cinch down evenly. Avoid very stiff or very slick ropes (a stiff rope might not cinch evenly; a slick nylon might slip and then yank out hair suddenly). Cotton can be okay too, being soft and somewhat grippy when tensioned. Some riggers even wet the rope slightly for extra grip (but that can tighten unpredictably as it dries, so be cautious).

• Alternate methods: If the lark's head method is tricky or if hair is extremely long, another method is to braid the rope into the hair. For example, take a strand of rope as one of the "sections" of a braid and braid it together with the hair, then tie the rope off at the end of the braid. This produces a cool effect, a rope-braid, which can then be used like a handle. It's gentler in some ways (spreads tension along the length of hair) but requires patience to braid. Another approach: if the hair is short but enough to gather a bit, you can use a thin cord and literally tie a series of overhand knots around the bundle of hair from base upward (almost like making a rope "grip" on the hair).

• Experience and caution: The scalp is sensitive. Some people love hair pulling. It releases endorphins and feels erotic or subby. Others find it too painful. So gauge your partner's preference. Start with light tension. A good hair tie, properly done, will hold even with firm pulling, but you can still modulate force. The feeling of being "leashed" by the hair can be psychologically intense. Many find it hot and submissive. It has a primal vibe ("I literally have you by the hair").

One more playful idea: a hair tie predicament. Tie the hair rope to, say, an ankle rope, so if the person lowers their leg, it pulls their hair. This kind of predicament ensures they keep posture to avoid tugging their own hair. Quite devious and requires flexibility! For those working with bed restraints, hair ties can also be anchored to headboards for interesting positioning challenges.

To put it in perspective of our earlier topics, hair ties fall under decorative/psychological more than restraint (you're not immobilizing limbs, but controlling posture). Done right, a rope hair tie "pulls the hair evenly with minimal damage" while still being extremely secure, meaning you can trust it for play without fear of random clumps being torn out. Always check after, make sure you're not inadvertently yanking too hard. And do not tie someone's hair and then forget about it while moving them around; sudden movements can cause an ouch moment.

Lastly, if your partner has very short hair, you might not be able to do a traditional hair tie. Instead, consider a head harness, rope that goes around the head itself (like a rope halter), but that's a different technique. Or use a leather head harness or a bonnet to attach rope to. But if there's at least a small ponytail possible, the lark's head tie can work even on shoulder-length hair (you gather as much as you can).

Hair bondage is a beautiful mix of sensual and psychological play. It often evokes a gasp when the rope is tugged and the head moves. Just think of it as an extension of classic hair-pulling, done with finesse via rope. As with all, go slow, communicate, and soon you’ll master this elegant technique.

With advanced ties like these (suspension, futomomo, hair ties), you can see Shibari can get quite elaborate. It's a journey; there is always more to learn. Take your time, never stop educating yourself on safety, and enjoy the process. Even advanced riggers will tell you they're constantly refining their technique. That's part of the appeal: Shibari is an endless learning experience, and each scene teaches you something new about ropes, your partner, and yourself.